Muiron Islands

The run out is part of the day: the islands lie roughly 13 km off Point Murat, beyond the northern tip of the cape, so this is a boat day rather than a quick morning trip, and the crossing itself turns up dolphins, pilot whales, dugongs and, in migration season, humpback whales. Currents at the islands are strong and conditions can be unpredictable, which is why the park service points divers at experienced local charter operators rather than at doing it themselves.

'The Spit' is the signature dive, plunging to 18 m off a rocky ledge. Numerous swimthroughs run along the edge of that ledge, and you work them in clouds of tiny baitfish thick enough to close in around you. Look under the overhangs as you pass: a grey nurse shark or a turtle is often sleeping there, and large manta rays swim by in the open water off the ledge.

'Whalebone', on the western side of South Muiron Island, is the other regularly dived spot — more swimthroughs and overhangs, packed with transparent glass fish and hung with soft corals. The cod hole, which runs parallel to South Muiron Island, is where the potato cod are photographed, alongside schooling cardinal fish. Which of the three the day takes in depends on conditions, so settle the plan with the operator before you commit the boat time.