Sugar Wreck

The run out takes about 20 minutes and ends over open ocean, with no land alongside the boat. Current is normally none to light, so the descent is unhurried, and visibility decides how the dive opens: on a good day the hull shows at 10 to 20 m and you see a stretch of it as you drop, on a poorer one it appears only in the last few metres. Either way you land on a wreck that fills the whole dive.

From there it is a straight swim along 90 m of hull, working the length rather than circling one feature. Bamboo sharks lie up under the plating, lionfish hang off the edges of the structure, and pufferfish and barracuda work the open water above the deck line. The deepest parts of the dive sit at about 25 m, so the plan usually runs deep first and shallows out along the way back.

One quirk of the site is the air pocket still trapped inside the wreck, which is what tempts divers into the overhead sections. Treat that as a penetration dive rather than a look through a doorway. The coral is a work in progress: the ship sank in 2000 and growth has not yet covered it, which keeps the steel legible but means the colour here is thinner than on the island reefs. The site is popular, so an early boat is worth asking for.