
Moyo and Satonda lie off the north coast of central Sumbawa inside Moyo Satonda National Park, and nearby Saleh Bay is where whale sharks gather around traditional fishing platforms all year. Around them the diving runs from Angel Reef's coral shallows and vertical wall to a sandy critter bay at Satonda. Most dives stay between 5 and 30 m. Access is by liveaboard or from the resort dive centre on Moyo.
About diving in Sumbawa — Moyo, Satonda & Saleh Bay
Diving here is done from liveaboards on the route between Bali and Komodo or from boats leaving Lombok, Bima or Sumbawa Besar, and the sites sit along the north coast where those trips pass. A day can run to two morning dives on the fringing reef outside Moyo's main village, then a late-afternoon move to Satonda for a dive on its slope and a night dive in its sheltered bay. Whale-shark days in Saleh Bay start before dawn at the fishing platforms. Mainland Sumbawa has no dive resort; the alternative to a boat trip is the dive centre at Amanwana Bay on Moyo, inside the national park.
Angel Reef drops from protected hard-coral shallows down a steep bank to an abrupt wall that keeps going past 40 m, its face hung with soft tree corals and dotted with barren blast zones from dynamite fishing, while yellowtail tuna hunt the deep channels. Panjang is a submerged reef in front of Moyo's small fishing village. At Satonda, sparse coral patches on the sand hold crinoids, polyclad flatworms, arrow crabs, banded boxer shrimp and the extremely rare clown frogfish. Blue-spotted rays, pufferfish and the occasional dolphin or whale appear across the park.
The diving ranges from beginner to intermediate level, though currents can be strong. Satonda's critters suit macro enthusiasts, and the whale sharks at the bagans can be met snorkelling as well as diving. Newer divers can train with the PADI instructors at Amanwana, who teach everyone from absolute beginners to experts. The whole coastline of Moyo is a marine conservation area, yet dynamite fishing is prevalent around the island and the village sends out boats to collect fees from visiting liveaboards.
Best time to dive Sumbawa — Moyo, Satonda & Saleh Bay
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fair | Fair | Fair | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Prime | Good |
Boats dive here all year, and the whale sharks of Saleh Bay stay all year too, so no month is closed. January to March is the unsettled stretch, when inclement weather can set in. April to November has the best conditions of the year. The dry season, especially May to September, brings the most visitors and so more whale-shark sightings, though not more sharks in the bay. December sits between the best window and the unsettled months.
Best months: April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November
Dive types & marine life
Whale sharks feed around Saleh Bay's bagans all year rather than in a season; May to September only looks busier because more visitors come then. Black-tip reef sharks are common along Angel Reef, the blue-ringed octopus at Panjang takes a sharp eye and some luck, and sea turtles turn up across the park.
- Wall
- Reef
- Night
- Muck & macro
- Whale sharks
- Reef sharks
- Sea turtles
- Octopus & cuttlefish
Best dive sites in Sumbawa — Moyo, Satonda & Saleh Bay
- 1
Angel Reef
Wall whose top draws large schools of redtooth triggerfish, long-fin bannerfish and rounded batfish.
- 2
Saleh Bay bagans
Fishing platforms where whale sharks feed on krill and the fishermen's discarded catch.
- 3
Panjang Reef
Banked reef 1 km off Moyo's north-west corner, busy with bi-colour angelfish and harlequin sweetlips.
- 4
Satonda
Sloping reef over sand with coral outcrops; its sheltered bay makes a night and muck dive.
Site guides
Wall
Black-tip reef sharks hunting along a sheer coral wall
How to get to Sumbawa — Moyo, Satonda & Saleh Bay
Sultan Muhammad Kaharuddin III Airport (SWQ) near Sumbawa Besar has flights from Bali of about 1 hour 20 minutes, and liveaboards leaving Sumbawa Besar are a short drive from the town to the harbour. Other boats run from Bali, Lombok or Bima toward Komodo and stop along this coast on the way.
Dive videos
Explore Spot Diving Sumbawa - Kalimaya Dive Resort #2 · agung afif (gungafif) on YouTube
Questions divers ask
When can whale sharks be seen in Saleh Bay?+
All year. They gather around the bagan fishing platforms in every month; May to September brings more sightings only because more visitors come then.
Is there a dive resort on Sumbawa?+
Not on the mainland. Divers come on liveaboards running between Bali, Lombok or Bima and Komodo, or stay at Amanwana on Moyo, whose dive centre works the national park's sites.
What certification is needed to dive Moyo and Satonda?+
Liveaboard divers need a certification from a recognised agency such as PADI, SSI, CMAS or BSAC. Uncertified visitors can learn with the PADI instructors at Amanwana, and Angel Reef's wall suits intermediate divers.
What is the best time of year to dive here?+
April to November has the best conditions. January to March can bring inclement weather, though diving continues all year and the whale sharks stay.
Sources
- Moyo Island Diving Experiences - Amanwana — Aman
- Beyond Komodo diving 10D9N — La Galigo Liveaboard
- Komodo liveaboard — Adelaar Cruises
- Sumbawa Diving - Indonesia — Dive The World
- Sumbawa — Wikivoyage
Photo credits
- A sea turtle feeding among branching and plate corals while a few angelfish swim past in clear blue water. by Chimawan, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
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