Couzoupa

Inside the lagoon, Couzoupa is shallow — a maximum of 10 to 15 m — and the diving is a slow tour of coral ground with the fish concentrated enough that the operator calls it a natural aquarium. Anemones and their clownfish, parrotfish, trumpetfish, leaf scorpionfish and scorpionfish are all on the same short stretch of reef.

At the exit of the pass, the same site is dived as a drift. You go in on the tide and run with it for about fifty minutes between 15 and 20 m, which turns a shallow reef swim into a current dive without changing the cast much: moray eels back in the coral, octopus out over the open ground, and turtles passing through.

It is snorkelled from the surface as well, and the guides list it as the island's most popular site for divers and snorkellers alike. The two ways of diving it — the shallow lagoon tour and the drift out of the pass — share the same coral ground and much of the same cast, so which one you get depends on the tide the boat is working.