North America · Canada
Les Escoumins
Anemone-packed rock and wolffish, dived from the shore at the St. Lawrence marine park
Les Escoumins sits at the entrance of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park on Quebec's Côte-Nord, and it is among the most sought-after cold-water dives in eastern Canada. Walkways, a trail and concrete stairs at the CDMM lead into the coves of La Crique Ouest and La Baie des Anémones, where rock crusted in pink algae is packed with anemones and urchins. Atlantic wolffish hide in small caves at the Quai des Pilotes, and the bare frame of the Bergeronne Trader lies at 40 m (133 ft).
About diving in Les Escoumins
This is shore diving from a base. Québec Subaquatique runs the dive base at the CDMM, where walkways, a trail and concrete stairs take divers into the water, an exception on a coastline that is mostly steep rock. The Quai des Pilotes, Anse-à-Joe and Paradis Marin are other shore entries; Paradis Marin sits halfway to Les Bergeronnes, where Explos-Nature keeps a dive school alongside its education and research camp. The base keeps a fixed schedule and is open from May to October only.
Underwater the ground is rock, covered in pink encrusting algae and densely settled with anemones and urchins. Visibility can reach 15 m, and a mooring cable at 5 m serves as an underwater landmark. At the Quai des Pilotes, Atlantic wolffish tuck into small caves in the rock. Straight out from the entry at the pilots' wharf, the Bergeronne Trader lies at 40 m (133 ft), stripped to its frame, part of its deck and its large engine. Diving at Les Escoumins takes place inside the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park.
The sites are generally sheltered but all of them feel the current and the tide, and at Anse-à-Joe the tidal stream is strong enough that dives are timed for slack water. Water between -1 and 8 °C (30 and 46 °F) calls for a drysuit, or a wetsuit of at least 14 mm with hood, boots and gloves. The sites are open to every level, ideally with a buddy who knows them or a local guide, but the Bergeronne Trader is reserved for advanced divers used to these conditions.
Best time to dive Les Escoumins
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Off-season | Off-season | Off-season | Off-season | Fair | Fair | Fair | Fair | Fair | Fair | Off-season | Off-season |
The dive base opens from May to October on a fixed schedule, and its sites are closed to divers while it is shut.
Best months:
Dive types & marine life
The rock at the CDMM is densely settled with anemones and urchins under a crust of pink algae, alongside sea stars and other marine animals. Atlantic wolffish are the fish to look for, hiding in small caves at the Quai des Pilotes, and spotting them takes a careful look.
- Reef
- Wreck
Best dive sites in Les Escoumins
- 1
Quai des Pilotes
Shore dive at the pilots' wharf, where Atlantic wolffish hide in small caves.
- 2
Bergeronne Trader
Wreck reduced to its frame, part of the deck and its big engine, at 40 m (133 ft).
- 3
La Baie des Anémones
The newest site laid out by the CDMM, in the Anse-à-Robitaille.
- 4
La Crique Ouest
Below the CDMM to the right, entered by a short walk over rocks to concrete steps.
- 5
Anse-à-Joe
Cove exposed to strong tidal currents, dived at slack water.
- 6
Paradis Marin
Entry from the campground of the same name, between Bergeronnes and Les Escoumins.
Site guides
Wreck
A 1930s wreck's engine at 40 m, reached on a line from the pilots' wharf
How to get to Les Escoumins
Les Escoumins lies on the St. Lawrence north shore, on the Intercar coach line from Quebec City to Baie-Comeau via Tadoussac. A ferry links it to Trois-Pistoles on the south shore from mid-May to mid-October, and the Grandes-Bergeronnes airfield is nearby. Le Gîte du Plongeur in Les Bergeronnes offers lodging and air fills.
Dive videos
Scuba diving in ¨Les Escoumins¨ · Blind Fish Productions | Underwater videographer on YouTube
Diving : Les Escoumins, Quebec, Canada · Marco Primeau Q & A on YouTube
Questions divers ask
What certification does Les Escoumins diving need?+
The sites are open to every level, ideally with a buddy who knows them or a local guide. The Bergeronne Trader at 40 m (133 ft) is reserved for advanced divers used to these conditions.
What exposure suit does Les Escoumins diving need?+
Water between -1 and 8 °C (30 and 46 °F) calls for a drysuit, or a wetsuit of at least 14 mm with hood, boots and gloves.
When is the Les Escoumins dive base open?+
The dive base opens from May to October on a fixed schedule, and its sites are closed to divers while it is shut. A ferry links the village to Trois-Pistoles on the south shore from mid-May to mid-October.
How do divers get to Les Escoumins?+
Les Escoumins is on the Intercar coach line from Quebec City to Baie-Comeau via Tadoussac. The Grandes-Bergeronnes airfield is nearby, and Le Gîte du Plongeur in Les Bergeronnes offers lodging and air fills.
Sources
- Base de plongée Les Escoumins — Québec Subaquatique
- Sites de plongée Les Escoumins — Québec Subaquatique
- Les Escoumins, CDMM — Scubarama
- Les Escoumins, quai des pilotes — Scubarama
- Les Escoumins, Anse-à-Joe — Scubarama
- Paradis Marin — Scubarama
- Les Escoumins — Wikivoyage
- Les Bergeronnes — Wikivoyage
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