Reefwander
A diver swims through the sunlit Northern Arch at the Poor Knights Islands.

Australia & New Zealand · New Zealand

Poor Knights Islands

Massive fish schools swirl through archways at one of the world's largest sea caves.

Photo: Anna Barnett · CC BY 2.0

The Poor Knights Islands are volcanic remnants 23 kilometers off Tutukaka in Northland, protected as a no-take marine reserve since 1981. The warm East Auckland Current sweeps subtropical fish species south to mix with temperate residents, producing dense schools of blue maomao and demoiselles around dramatic archways, and Rikoriko Cave, one of the world's largest sea caves, is large enough to dive inside by boat.

About diving in Poor Knights Islands

Every dive is a day-boat dive. Charters leave Tutukaka marina in the morning, cross to the islands in under an hour, and fit two dives around a surface interval spent anchored in a bay. Nobody goes ashore: the islands are a nature reserve and landing needs a permit recreational visitors do not get, so the boat is your only platform for the day. Skippers pick sites off the morning's wind and swell, and with so many bays and faces to choose from there is usually a sheltered option somewhere.

The islands drop straight into deep water rather than shelving off, so the diving happens close against vertical rock. What makes the terrain unusual is how comprehensively it is drilled through, with tunnels and archways piercing whole headlands and caves running back into the cliffs, at least one of them holding an air-filled chamber above the waterline. Kelp covers the shallow rock, sponge and gorgonian growth takes over further down, and there is no reef-building coral in any of it.

Fish density is the reason divers come back. In the gaps the schools stack up densely enough to close off the view of the far wall, and decades of protection have left the resident fish large and largely indifferent to divers. Conditions vary more than the photographs suggest: current runs hardest through exactly the gaps where the fish sit, surge inside the arches can push you around on a swelly day, and visibility can swing widely within a single dive as the current turns.

Trips tend to be short, since everything runs on the boat's schedule and two or three days covers the well-known sites without repeating them. Two decommissioned navy vessels were scuttled closer inshore off Tutukaka around the turn of the 2000s and are dived on separate charters, which is a useful fallback when swell shuts the outer islands down, though one of the two has broken up substantially in the storms since.

Best time to dive Poor Knights Islands

Poor Knights Islands season rating, sea surface temperature, daytime high and rainfall by month, 2011–2025 averages
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
SeasonPrimePrimePrimePrimeGoodGoodFairFairFairGoodGoodGood
Sea surface20°C68°F21°C70°F21°C70°F20°C68°F19°C66°F18°C64°F16°C61°F16°C61°F16°C61°F16°C61°F17°C63°F19°C66°F
Daytime high23°C73°F24°C75°F23°C73°F22°C72°F20°C68°F19°C66°F17°C63°F17°C63°F17°C63°F19°C66°F20°C68°F22°C72°F
Rain87 mm3.4 in69 mm2.7 in88 mm3.5 in105 mm4.1 in123 mm4.8 in139 mm5.5 in144 mm5.7 in126 mm5.0 in118 mm4.6 in83 mm3.3 in84 mm3.3 in83 mm3.3 in
Poor Knights Islands season rating, sea surface temperature, daytime high and rainfall by month, January to June, 2011–2025 averages
JanFebMarAprMayJun
PrimePrimePrimePrimeGoodGood
Sea surface
20°C68°F21°C70°F21°C70°F20°C68°F19°C66°F18°C64°F
Daytime high
23°C73°F24°C75°F23°C73°F22°C72°F20°C68°F19°C66°F
Rain
87 mm3.4 in69 mm2.7 in88 mm3.5 in105 mm4.1 in123 mm4.8 in139 mm5.5 in
Poor Knights Islands season rating, sea surface temperature, daytime high and rainfall by month, July to December, 2011–2025 averages
JulAugSepOctNovDec
FairFairFairGoodGoodGood
Sea surface
16°C61°F16°C61°F16°C61°F16°C61°F17°C63°F19°C66°F
Daytime high
17°C63°F17°C63°F17°C63°F19°C66°F20°C68°F22°C72°F
Rain
144 mm5.7 in126 mm5.0 in118 mm4.6 in83 mm3.3 in84 mm3.3 in83 mm3.3 in

2011–2025 averages. Sea surface: NOAA Coral Reef Watch, measured at the surface, so deeper water can run colder. Daytime high and rain: NASA POWER.

The East Auckland Current brings the warmest water and best visibility Jan–Apr; winter (Jul–Sep) is colder with more swell.

Best months: January, February, March, April

Poor Knights Islands water temperature and weather by month

The sea surface runs from 16 °C (61 °F) in August to 21 °C (70 °F) in February. Rain falls through the year, about 100 mm (3.9 in) a month on average, with July the wettest. Daytime highs reach 24 °C (75 °F) in February and drop to 17 °C (63 °F) in August. The coldest water here is about 15 °C (59 °F), so pack a 7 mm suit with a hood, or a semi-dry.

Dive types & marine life

Schooling fish pack the arches in every month, thickest in the warm January-to-April stretch when the current carries subtropical strays from the north. Short-tailed stingrays gather at the arches in late summer and autumn. Trevally and kingfish work the current lines, eagle rays cross the sand at the bay mouths, octopus and nudibranchs sit on the walls, and dolphins join the crossing.

  • Cave & cavern
  • Wall
  • Reef
  • Drift
  • Reef fish swarms
  • Stingrays
  • Eagle rays
  • Dolphins
  • Trevally & jacks
  • Octopus & cuttlefish
  • Nudibranchs

Best dive sites in Poor Knights Islands

Channel & pass

Schools of blue maomao packed into an eight-metre arch

7–8 m · max 18 mbeginner

Channel & pass

An underwater air bubble cave beside drop-offs past 40 metres

14–16 m · max 40 mintermediate

A 12-15 metre gap over a 40 metre bottom, stacked with stingrays

to 40 madvanced

Cave & cavern

A large whale jaw bone on the sand at 12 metres, inside the cave

12–30 mintermediate
  • Landing Bay Pinnacle

    Sheltered pinnacle popular for its abundant reef fish.

How to get to Poor Knights Islands

Everything runs from Tutukaka, about half an hour from Whangarei and roughly two and a half hours' drive north of Auckland; most divers drive up and stay in Tutukaka or Ngunguru. Boats leave in the morning and are back mid-afternoon. Landing on the islands is prohibited, so there is no shore diving and nowhere to stay out there.

Photos from Poor Knights Islands

  • Peter Southwood · CC BY-SA 3.0

  • Pseudopanax at English Wikipedia · CC BY 4.0

Dive videos

Scuba Diving The POOR KNIGHTS In New Zealand · Blue Horizon Diving on YouTube

Poor Knights Diving | North Island New Zealand · Pursuing Mountains on YouTube

Photo credits

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