Reefwander
Blue tang graze among elkhorn coral branches on a shallow St. Croix reef.

Caribbean · U.S. Virgin Islands

St. Croix

Swim off a beach onto a wall that drops past 900 metres

Photo: NOAA Photo Library · CC BY 2.0

St. Croix packs three unrelated kinds of diving into one small island. Cane Bay Wall starts about 90 m off a public beach and falls away from 12 m to more than 900 m, one of the few walls in the Caribbean reachable by swimming out from the sand. Salt River Canyon cuts a submarine gorge into the north shore. And Frederiksted Pier, a working cruise dock, is a night dive of genuine international standing, with seahorses, frogfish and batfish among the pilings.

About diving in St. Croix

The island is dived by car as much as by boat. North-shore shops run guided dives straight off roadside beaches, and Cane Bay's mooring buoy sits about 90 m out in 8 m, close enough to swim to. Plenty of divers rent tanks, drive to a beach and go in on their own. Boats leave Christiansted and the Salt River marina for the canyon, Buck Island and the Butler Bay wrecks. Frederiksted Pier, a 465 m cruise pier, is entered from the beach beside it and is usually dived with a guided night group.

Along the north coast the drop runs roughly parallel to the road, so separate entries reach different stretches of the same edge, each with a swim out over sand chutes and coral gardens to a lip at about 12 m. Salt River cuts back into that shore as a drowned canyon with a wall on either side, normally reached by boat. Buck Island, a national monument off the north-east coast, allows scuba only at two designated moorings, with dives of 9 to 12 m around an elkhorn barrier reef. The west end is the opposite sort of dive: sheltered lee, sand, and structure that is mostly sunk ships.

The pier is what brings divers back. Its pilings stand in about 7 m of water and, with years of encrusting growth, behave like a muck site: seahorses, batfish and frogfish live on them, and most of what lives there is small, camouflaged and easiest to find after dark. Butler Bay adds the wrecks, from the Northwind's wheelhouse at 5 m to the Rosaomaira, a 54 m Venezuelan freighter (177 feet) whose deepest point is 36 m. A photographer can shoot the wall wide-angle in the morning and go macro under the pilings the same night.

It suits divers who like driving themselves around, photographers who want two disciplines on one trip, and groups with non-divers, since this is US territory with US currency and US phone service. Surge and swell on the north-shore swim-outs can stir the shallows, and rain run-off cuts visibility at Cane Bay, when the sheltered west end covers the gap. Divers hunting dependable big pelagics should temper their expectations; St. Croix is a wall, pier and wreck destination.

Best time to dive St. Croix

St. Croix season rating, sea surface temperature, daytime high and rainfall by month, 2011–2025 averages
JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
SeasonPrimePrimePrimePrimePrimeGoodGoodFairFairFairGoodPrime
Sea surface27°C81°F27°C81°F26°C79°F27°C81°F28°C82°F28°C82°F29°C84°F29°C84°F29°C84°F29°C84°F29°C84°F28°C82°F
Daytime high28°C82°F27°C81°F28°C82°F28°C82°F29°C84°F29°C84°F30°C86°F30°C86°F30°C86°F30°C86°F29°C84°F28°C82°F
Rain28 mm1.1 in26 mm1.0 in30 mm1.2 in40 mm1.6 in74 mm2.9 in62 mm2.4 in70 mm2.8 in98 mm3.9 in109 mm4.3 in110 mm4.3 in107 mm4.2 in45 mm1.8 in
St. Croix season rating, sea surface temperature, daytime high and rainfall by month, January to June, 2011–2025 averages
JanFebMarAprMayJun
PrimePrimePrimePrimePrimeGood
Sea surface
27°C81°F27°C81°F26°C79°F27°C81°F28°C82°F28°C82°F
Daytime high
28°C82°F27°C81°F28°C82°F28°C82°F29°C84°F29°C84°F
Rain
28 mm1.1 in26 mm1.0 in30 mm1.2 in40 mm1.6 in74 mm2.9 in62 mm2.4 in
St. Croix season rating, sea surface temperature, daytime high and rainfall by month, July to December, 2011–2025 averages
JulAugSepOctNovDec
GoodFairFairFairGoodPrime
Sea surface
29°C84°F29°C84°F29°C84°F29°C84°F29°C84°F28°C82°F
Daytime high
30°C86°F30°C86°F30°C86°F30°C86°F29°C84°F28°C82°F
Rain
70 mm2.8 in98 mm3.9 in109 mm4.3 in110 mm4.3 in107 mm4.2 in45 mm1.8 in

2011–2025 averages. Sea surface: NOAA Coral Reef Watch, measured at the surface, so deeper water can run colder. Daytime high and rain: NASA POWER.

December to May is the calmest and clearest stretch and falls in the dry season, with the wet season running from August to November. March and April add a chance of seeing or hearing humpback whales as they migrate along the Puerto Rico Trench past the Cane Bay wall. June and July stay good, warm and settled, though the Atlantic hurricane season has begun. August to October is the weak stretch, the wet heart of hurricane season, when rain run-off clouds the north-shore sites and the pier and west-end wrecks in the lee are the fallback. November improves as the rain eases. The sea stays between about 25 and 30 °C all year.

Best months: January, February, March, April, May, December

St. Croix water temperature and weather by month

The sea surface runs from 26 °C (79 °F) in March to 29 °C (84 °F) in September. Most rain falls from July to November, peaking at about 110 mm (4.3 in) in October; January to March are the driest. Daytime highs sit around 29 °C (84 °F) all year. The coldest water here is about 25 °C (77 °F), so pack a 3 mm full suit.

Dive types & marine life

The pier after dark is the macro draw, with frogfish, octopus and nudibranchs on the pilings through the year; seahorses are part of its reputation but a lucky find rather than a given. Turtles and eagle rays work the wall tops and sand chutes, grouper hold on the Butler Bay wrecks, and reef sharks are an occasional sighting on the drop rather than a plan. Nov-Jun is calmest and clearest.

  • Wall
  • Wreck
  • Muck & macro
  • Night
  • Reef
  • Drift
  • Sea turtles
  • Frogfish
  • Macro critters
  • Nudibranchs
  • Octopus & cuttlefish
  • Reef fish swarms
  • Eagle rays
  • Groupers
  • Reef sharks

Best dive sites in St. Croix

  1. 1

    Cane Bay Wall

    Shore-dived wall about 90 m off the beach; the lip sits at 12 m, then the drop runs past 900 m.

  2. 2

    Frederiksted Pier

    Cruise-pier pilings in 7 m with seahorses, batfish and frogfish; the island's night dive.

  3. 3

    Salt River Canyon

    Drowned canyon with two facing walls; the West Wall is the most requested boat dive on the island.

  4. 4

    Butler Bay Wrecks

    West-end wreck cluster, from the Northwind's wheelhouse at 5 m to the Suffolk Maid at 24 m.

  5. 5

    Buck Island

    National monument reef off the north-east coast; scuba only at two designated moorings.

Site guides

One of only three marked underwater trails in the United States

9–12 mbeginner

Three sunk ships and a retired underwater habitat in one bay

5–24 mintermediate

Nineteenth-century anchors lie along a wall that drops past 975 m

8–12 mbeginner

Artificial reef

A 7 m shore dive that photographers run day and night

to 7 mbeginner

Two facing walls a quarter mile apart, cut by a prehistoric river

6–24 m · max 152 mintermediate

How to get to St. Croix

Flights reach St. Croix from the US mainland or via San Juan, with short hops from St. Thomas. Christiansted, Frederiksted and the Cane Bay strip are the usual bases. Rent a car, since the sites are spread along the north and west coasts, and note that the USVI drives on the left in left-hand-drive cars.

Photos from St. Croix

  • Alchematics · CC BY-SA 4.0

  • NOAA Photo Library · CC BY 2.0

  • SNORKELINGDIVES.COM · CC BY 2.0

  • NOAA Photo Library · CC BY 2.0

Dive videos

Turtles, Sharks, and 1 Amazing Reef (Scuba Diving Cane Bay Travel Vlog: St. Croix, USVI) · Triton's Realm on YouTube

Scuba Diving St. Croix's Most Diverse Site! (Frederiksted Pier Underwater Family Travel Vlog) · Triton's Realm on YouTube

Questions divers ask

Can divers shore dive the wall at St. Croix?+

Yes. At Cane Bay the mooring buoy sits about 90 m off the beach in 8 m, and sand chutes lead from it to the lip of the wall at about 12 m, where the bottom falls away past 900 m. Surge and swell on the swim out are the main thing to plan for.

Is Frederiksted Pier a good night dive?+

It is the island's best-known night dive. The pilings stand in about 7 m of water and hold seahorses, batfish and frogfish, and the shallow, sandy floor suits novice divers. It is entered from the beach beside the pier.

What certification do I need to dive St. Croix?+

Open Water covers the pier, Buck Island and the tops of the north-shore walls. The Salt River canyon walls and the deep Butler Bay wrecks, where the Rosaomaira reaches 36 m, suit Advanced divers, and the walls have no bottom, so depth discipline matters.

Is scuba diving allowed at Buck Island?+

Yes, but only at the two designated scuba moorings inside Buck Island Reef National Monument, with dives of about 9 to 12 m around an elkhorn coral barrier reef. Fishing and collecting are banned throughout the monument.

How do divers get to St. Croix?+

Fly into Henry E. Rohlsen International Airport, which has regular flights from the US mainland, Puerto Rico and the eastern Caribbean. Base in Christiansted, Frederiksted or near Cane Bay and hire a car; traffic keeps left, although nearly all cars are left-hand drive.

Sources

  1. Saint Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands — Wikipedia
  2. St. Croix Dive Sites — GoToStCroix.com
  3. Cane Bay Wall — GoToStCroix.com
  4. Salt River Canyon West Wall (Grouper Grotto) — GoToStCroix.com
  5. Deep Wrecks at Butler Bay — GoToStCroix.com
  6. Frederiksted Pier — Wikipedia
  7. Buck Island Reef National Monument: Outdoor Activities — National Park Service
  8. Atlantic hurricane season — Wikipedia

Photo credits

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